Файл: 92FWD_8D.pdf

GENERAL INFORMATION

This section describes the ignition systems of the 2.2L TBI, 2.5L TBI, Turbo I and 3.0L engines.

The Fuel Injection sections of Group 14 explain On Board Diagnostics.

Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance, contains general maintenance information for ignition related items. The Owner's Manual also contains maintenance information.

DISTRIBUTOR CAP

Remove the distributor cap and inspect the inside for flashover, cracking of carbon button, lack of spring tension on carbon button, cracking of cap, and burned, worn terminals (Fig. 1). Also check for broken distributor cap towers. If any of these conditions are present the distributor cap and/or cables should be replaced.

When replacing the distributor cap, transfer cables from the original cap to the new cap one at a time.

Fig. 1 Distributor Cap Inspection

Ensure each cable is installed into the corresponding tower of the new cap. Fully seat the wires into the towers. If necessary, refer to the appropriate engine

Fig. 3 Engine Firing OrderÐ3.0L Engine

ROTOR

Replace the rotor if it is cracked, the tip is excessively burned or heavily scaled (Fig. 4). If the spring terminal does not have adequate tension, replace the rotor.

SPARK PLUG CABLES

Spark Plug cables are sometimes referred to as secondary ignition wires. They transfer electrical current from the distributor to individual spark plugs at each cylinder. 2.2L TBI, 2.5L TBI, Turbo I , Turbo III and 3.0L engines use resistance type cables. The cables suppress radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.

Check the spark plug cable connections for good contact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.

Fig. 5 Spark Plug Cable Removal/InstallationÐ2.2L

and 2.5L TBI Engines

Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Check for brittle or cracked insulation.

When testing secondary cables for punctures and cracks with an oscilloscope follow the equipment manufacturers instructions.

If an oscilloscope is not available, secondary cables can be tested as follows:

CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable disconnected any longer than necessary during testing. Excessive heat could damage the catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed ten minutes.

(a)With the engine not running, connect one end of a test probe to a good ground. Use a probe made of insulated wire with insulated alligator clips on each end.

(b)With engine running, move test probe along entire length of all cables (approximately 0 to 1/8 inch gap). If punctures or cracks are present there will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area to the probe. Check the coil cable the same way. Replace cracked, leaking or faulty cables.

When replacing cables, install the new high

tension cable and nipple assembly over cap or coil tower. When entering the terminal into the tower, push lightly, then pinch the large diameter of nipple to release air trapped between the nipple and tower. Continue pushing on the cable and nipple until cables are properly seated in the cap towers. A snap should be heard as terminal goes into place.

Use the same procedure to install cable in coil tower. Wipe the spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling cable and cover.

Use the following procedure when removing the high tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove the cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the terminal as close as possible to the spark plug. Rotate the cover and pull the cable straight back. Pulling on the cable itself will damage the conductor and terminal connection. Do not use pliers and do not pull the cable at an angle. Doing so will damage the insulation, cable terminal or the spark plug insulator. Wipe spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling cable and cover.

Resistance type cable is identified by the words Electronic Suppression printed on the cable jacket.

Use an ohmmeter to check resistance type cable for open circuits, loose terminals or high resistance as follows:

(a)Remove cable from spark plug.

(b)Lift distributor cap from distributor with cables intact. Do not remove cables from cap.

The cables must be removed from the spark plugs.

(c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug end terminal and the corresponding electrode inside the cap, make sure ohmmeter probes are in good contact. Resistance should be within tolerance shown in the cable resistance chart. If resistance is not within tolerance, remove cable at cap tower and check the cable. If resistance is still not within tolerance, replace cable assembly. Test all spark plug cables in same manner.

CABLE RESISTANCE CHART

To test coil to distributor cap high tension cable, remove distributor cap with the cable intact. Do not remove cable from the cap. Connect the ohmmeter between center contact in the cap and remove the cable at coil tower and check cable resistance. If resistance is not within tolerance, replace the cable.

SPARK PLUGS

Resistor spark plugs are used in all engines and have resistance values of 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt tester.

Remove the spark plugs and examine them for burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken porcelain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order in which they were removed from the engine. An isolated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder. Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in Group O.

Undamaged low milage spark plugs can be cleaned and reused. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of this group. After cleaning, file the center electrode flat with a small point file or jewelers file. Adjust the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 6) to the dimensions specified in the chart at the end of this section.

Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion and change spark plug gap. Tighten 2.5L and 3.0L engine spark plugs to 28 NIm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.

SPARK PLUG CONDITION

NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS

The few deposits present will be probably light tan or slightly gray in color with most grades of commercial gasoline (Fig. 7). There will not be evidence of electrode burning. Gap growth will not average more than approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 1600 km (1000 miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have nor-

Fig. 6 Setting Spark Plug Electrode GapÐTypical

mal wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes filed and regapped, and then reinstalled.

Fig. 7 Normal Operation and Cold (Carbon) Fouling

Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT) for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT coats the entire tip of the spark plug with a rust color deposit. The rust color deposits could be misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the combustion chamber. MMT deposits do not affect spark plug performance.

COLD FOULING (CARBON FOULING)

Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon fouling. The deposits that cause cold fouling are basically carbon (Fig. 7). A dry, black deposit on one or two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves or

defective spark plug cables. Cold (carbon) fouling of the entire set may be caused by a clogged air cleaner.

Cold fouling is normal after short operating periods. The spark plugs do not reach a high enough operating temperature during short operating periods.

WET FOULING

A spark plug that is coated with excessive wet fuel or oil is wet fouled. In older engines, wet fouling can be caused by worn rings or excessive cylinder wear.

Break-in fouling of new engines may occur before normal oil control is achieved. In new or recently overhauled engines, wet fouled spark plugs can be usually be cleaned and reinstalled.

OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED

If one or more plugs are oil or oil ash encrusted, engine oil is entering the combustion chambers (Fig. 8). Evaluate the engine to determine the cause.

Fig. 8 Oil or Ash Encrusted

HIGH SPEED MISS

When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle operation should be avoided for approximately 80 km (50 miles) after installation of new plugs. This will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.

ELECTRODE GAP BRIDGING

Loose deposits in the combustion chamber can cause electrode gap bridging. The deposits accumulate on the spark plugs during continuous stop- and-go driving. When the engine is suddenly

subjected to a high torque load, the deposits partially liquefy and bridge the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 9). This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs with electrode gap bridging can be cleaned using standard procedures.

from the center electrode (Fig. 11). Replace spark plugs with chipped electrode insulators.

Fig. 9 Electrode Gap Bridging

SCAVENGER DEPOSITS

Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yellow (Fig. 10). They may appear to be harmful, but are a normal condition caused by chemical additives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease spark plug misfire tendencies. Accumulation on the ground electrode and shell area may be heavy but the deposits are easily removed. Spark plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered normal in condition and be cleaned using standard procedures.

Fig. 10 Scavenger Deposits

CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR

A chipped electrode insulator usually results from bending the center electrode while adjusting the spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions, severe detonation also can separate the insulator

Fig. 11 Chipped Electrode Insulator

PREIGNITION DAMAGE

Excessive combustion chamber temperature can cause preignition damage. The center electrode dissolves first and the ground electrode dissolves somewhat later (Fig. 12). Insulators appear relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plug has the correct heat range rating for the engine, if ignition timing is over advanced or if other operating conditions are causing engine overheating. The heat range rating refers to the operating temperature of a particular type spark plug. Spark plugs are designed to operate within specific temperature ranges depending upon the thickness and length of the center electrode and porcelain insulator.

Fig. 12 Preignition Damage

SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING

Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig. 13). The increase in electrode gap will be considerably in excess of 0.001 in per 1000 miles of operation. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat range