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21 - 48 TRANSAXLE

When cleaning or assembling the governor, make sure the governor valves move freely in the bores of the governor body.

ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR

Damaged or worn threads in the aluminum transaxle case and valve body can be repaired by the use of Heli-Coils, or equivalent. This repair consists of drilling out the worn-out damaged threads. Then tapping the hole with a Heli-Coil tap, or equivalent, and installing a Heli-Coil insert, or equivalent, into the hole. This brings the hole back to its original thread size.

Heli-Coil, or equivalent, tools and inserts are readily available from most automotive parts suppliers.

OIL COOLERS AND TUBES REVERSE FLUSHING

When a transaxle failure has contaminated the fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The torque converter must be replaced with an exchange unit. This will insure that metal particles or sludged oil are not transferred back into the reconditioned (or replaced) transaxle.

CAUTION: If vehicle is equipped with two oil coolers (one in the radiator tank, one in front of the radiator) they must be flushed separately. Do not attempt to flush both coolers at one time.

(1)Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.

(2)Using a hand suction gun filled with mineral spirits, reverse flush the cooler. Force mineral spirits into the From Cooler line of the cooler (Fig. 8) and catch the exiting spirits from the To Cooler line. Observe for the presence of debris in the exiting fluid. Continue until fluid exiting is clear and free from debris.

Fig. 8 Cooler Line Identification

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(3)Using compressed air in intermittent spurts, blow any remaining mineral spirits from the cooler, again in the reverse direction.

(4)To remove any remaining mineral spirits from the cooler, one (1) quart of automatic transmission fluid should be pumped through the cooler before reconnecting.

(5)If at any stage of the cleaning process, the cooler does not freely pass fluid, the cooler must be replaced.

OIL COOLER FLOW CHECK

After the new or repaired transmission has been installed and filled to the proper level with automatic transmission fluid. The flow should be checked using the following procedure:

(1)Disconnect the From cooler line at the transmission and place a collecting container under the disconnected line.

(2)Run the engine at curb idle speed, with the shift selector in neutral.

(3)If the fluid flow is intermittent or it takes more than 20 seconds to collect one quart of automatic transmission fluid, the cooler should be replaced.

CAUTION: With the fluid set at the proper level, fluid collection should not exceed (1) quart or internal damage to the transmission may occur.

(4) If flow is found to be within acceptable limits, reconnect the cooler line. Then fill transmission to the proper level, using the approved type of automatic transmission fluid.

TRANSAXLE AND TORQUE CONVERTER REMOVAL

Transaxle removal does NOT require engine removal.

(1)The transaxle and torque converter must be removed as an assembly; otherwise, the torque converter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal may be damaged. The drive plate will not support a load; therefore, none of the weight of the transaxle should be allowed to rest on the plate during removal.

(2)Disconnect battery negative cable.

(3)Disconnect throttle linkage and shift linkage from transaxle.

If equipped, unplug lockup torque converter plug, located near the dipstick.

CAUTION: Raise vehicle. Remove front wheels. Refer to Suspension, Group 2 to remove or install wheel hub nut and both drive shafts.

Remove torque converter dust cover. Mark torque converter and drive plate with chalk, for reassembly. Remove torque converter mounting bolts.

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Fig. 1 Remove Upper and Lower Oil Cooler Hoses

Fig. 2 Engine Support Fixture

Fig. 3 Remove Bell Housing Upper Bolts

Remove or install starter. Remove or install lower bell housing bolts.

Carefully work transaxle and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels and disengage converter hub from end of crankshaft. Attach a

TRANSAXLE 21 - 49

Fig. 4 Remove or Install Left Splash Shield

Fig. 5 Remove or Install Access Plug in Right Splash Shield to Rotate Engine Crankshaft

Fig. 6 Remove or Install Wire to Neutral/Park Safety Switch

small ``C'' clamp to edge of bell housing. This will hold torque converter in place during tran-

Fig. 7 Remove or Install Engine Mount Bracket from Front Crossmember

Fig. 8 Remove or Install Front Mount Insulator Through-Bolt and Bell Housing Bolts

Fig. 9 Positioning Transmission Jack

saxle removal. Lower transaxle and remove assembly from under the vehicle.

Fig. 10 Remove or Install Left Engine Mount

Fig. 11 Remove or Install Left Engine Mount from Engine

Fig. 12 Raise or Lower Transaxle

When installing transaxle, reverse the above procedure.

If torque converter was removed from transaxle be sure to align pump inner gear pilot flats with torque

Fig. 5 Remove or Install Parking Rod E-Clip

Remove or install neutral starting and back-up lamp switch.

Fig. 6 Parking Rod

Fig. 8 Valve Body and Governor Tubes

Measuring input shaft end play before disassembly will usually indicate when a thrust washer change is required, (except when major parts are replaced). The thrust washer is located between input and output shafts.

Attach a dial indicator to transaxle bell housing with its plunger seated against end of input shaft (Fig. 9).

Fig. 9 Measure Input Shaft End Play

Move input shaft in and out to obtain end play reading. End play specifications are 0.19 to 1.50 mm (.008 to .060 inch).

Record indicator reading for reference when reassembling the transaxle.

Fig. 16 Kickdown Band and Strut

Fig. 17 Front Clutch Assembly

Fig. 18 No. 2 Thrust Washer and Rear Clutch

CAUTION: The input shaft for non-lockup torque converter has 2 seal rings. The lockup input shaft has three seal rings.

Fig. 19 No. 3 Thrust Washer

Fig. 20 Front Planetary Gear Snap Ring

Fig. 21 Front Planetary Gear Assembly

All subassemblies should be inspected and/or reconditioned when transaxle recondition is performed. Refer to appropriate subassembly in this section for recondition procedure.

ASSEMBLY SUBASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

When rebuilding, reverse the above procedure.

VALVE BODY-RECONDITION

Tighten all valve body screws to 5 Newtonmeters (40 in.lbs.)

Do not clamp any portion of valve body or transfer plate in a vise. Any slight distortion of the aluminum body or transfer plate will result in sticking valves, excessive leakage or both. When removing or installing valves or plugs, slide them in or out carefully. Do not use force.

TAG ALL SPRINGS AS THEY ARE REMOVED FOR REASSEMBLY IDENTIFICATION.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Allow all parts to soak a few minutes in a suitable clean solvent. Wash thoroughly and blow dry with compressed air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from obstructions.

Inspect manual and throttle valve operating levers and shafts for being bent, worn or loose. If a lever is loose on its shaft, it should be replaced. Do not attempt to straighten bent levers.

Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs, nicks and scratches. Minor blemishes may be removed with crocus cloth, using only a very light pressure. Using a straightedge, inspect all mating surfaces for warpage or distortion. Slight distortion may be corrected, using a surface plate. Make sure all metering holes in steel plate are open. Using a pen light, inspect bores in valve body for scores, scratches, pits and irregularities.

Inspect all valve springs for distortion and collapsed coils. Inspect all valves and plugs for burrs, nicks, and scores. Small nicks and scores may be removed with crocus cloth, providing extreme care is taken not to round off sharp edges. The sharpness of these edges is important. They prevent foreign matter from lodging between valve and valve body, thus reducing possibility of sticking. Inspect all valves and plugs for freedom of operation in valve body bores.

When bores, valves, and plugs are clean and dry, the valves and plugs should fall freely in the bores. The valve body bores do not change dimensions with use. Therefore, a valve body that was functioning properly when vehicle was new, will operate correctly if it is properly and thoroughly cleaned. There is no need to replace valve body unless it is damaged in handling.

Fig. 1 Detent Spring Attaching Screw and Spring

Fig. 2 Remove Valve Body Screws

Fig. 3 Remove or Install Valve Body Screws